Nasolabial fold: what exactly is it, and how can you soften it without surgery?

Surco nasogeniano: qué es exactamente y cómo suavizarlo sin cirugía

The nasolabial fold is not an ordinary wrinkle

You smile, look in the mirror, and there they are. Two lines that start at the sides of the nose and descend toward the corners of the lips. They become deeper when you laugh, but persist even when your face is at rest. These are the nasolabial folds, also called nasolabial creases, smile lines, or, in medical terms, the nasolabial sulcus.

But here’s what most people don’t know: the nasolabial fold is not technically a wrinkle. It is a normal anatomical structure of the human face. From birth, there is a crease between the cheek and upper lip, created by the difference in height between the maxillary bone, buccal fat, and upper lip elevator muscles. In a baby, this crease is soft and barely visible. Over the years, it deepens until it becomes a line that reveals age more harshly than almost any other.

Understanding that the nasolabial fold is a normal anatomical structure, not a pathology, changes how you approach it. You cannot eliminate it without altering the anatomy of your face. But you can soften it, reduce its appearance, delay its deepening, and prevent it from becoming a deep fold that casts shadows and makes you look older.

Why the nasolabial fold deepens with age

The nasolabial fold becomes more visible due to a combination of factors acting simultaneously. There is no single cause. It is the convergence of several factors.

Loss of collagen and elastin. Starting at age 25, the body produces approximately 1% less collagen each year. Collagen is the protein that gives skin structure and firmness. Elastin allows skin to return to its original position after being stretched. Without these proteins, the skin covering the nasolabial fold sinks, becomes looser, and the fold becomes more pronounced.

Loss of cheek volume. With age, the fat that gives the cheeks their volume, known as buccal fat or Bichat’s fat, becomes redistributed and diminishes. Cheeks that were once full and rounded become hollow and sag. This loss of volume increases the height difference between the cheek and the lip, deepening the nasolabial fold. It is like deflating a cushion that was resting against a wall: the crease between the cushion and the wall becomes deeper.

Repeated facial movements. Every time you smile, talk, laugh, or move your lips, the upper lip elevator muscles contract. These muscles attach to the skin near the nasolabial fold, pulling it upward. At first, the fold is visible only during facial expressions. But after thousands of repetitions over decades, the skin develops muscle memory and the fold becomes permanent, visible even at rest.

Accumulated sun damage. UV radiation directly degrades collagen and elastin through free radicals. It accelerates volume loss and sagging. And in the nasolabial fold area, where the skin is already subjected to mechanical tension from the muscles, accumulated sun damage deepens the fold disproportionately.

Genetics and bone structure. Some people have a more recessed jaw, lower cheekbones, or a facial structure that predisposes them to deeper nasolabial folds from a young age. If your parents had pronounced folds, you will probably develop them too. Genetics does not determine destiny, but it sets the stage.

Significant weight loss. Losing a lot of weight quickly reduces subcutaneous fat in the face, including the cheeks. The skin, which was previously stretched over the volume, sags and sinks, deepening the nasolabial folds. This is one reason why people who lose a lot of weight sometimes appear older.

Smoking and oxidative stress. Smoking reduces blood flow to the skin, destroys collagen, and generates free radicals that accelerate aging. Tobacco also causes repeated facial expressions (pursing the lips, squinting) that deepen expression lines. General oxidative stress, caused by pollution, a poor diet, and chronic stress, also degrades collagen and deepens the folds.

How to Soften the Nasolabial Fold with a Natural Routine

You cannot eliminate the nasolabial fold without surgery or fillers. But you can visibly soften it, delay its deepening, and improve the overall appearance of the area with a consistent routine and the right ingredients.

Step 1: Strict sun protection for the area

Sun damage is the most powerful accelerator of the nasolabial fold. Apply SPF 30 or higher sunscreen to your entire face, specifically including the nasolabial fold area. Reapply every two hours if you are outdoors. And do not forget sun protection on cloudy days: up to 80% of UV rays penetrate clouds.

Mineral filters (zinc oxide, titanium dioxide) are preferable because they are gentler, do not irritate the sensitive skin around the mouth, and also reflect light, providing a brightening effect that disguises the shadows of the fold. Apply generously to the nasolabial fold, not just the cheeks.

Step 2: An anti-aging serum that stimulates collagen in the area

The nasolabial fold needs active ingredients that stimulate collagen synthesis in the dermis, plumping the skin from within and smoothing the indentation. Our Bakuchiol Anti-Wrinkle Facial Serum with Aloe Vera and 6 Plant Oils is formulated for this purpose.

Bakuchiol stimulates collagen without irritation, making it ideal for the nasolabial fold area, where the skin is sensitive and prone to inflammation. The six plant oils (jojoba, helichrysum, sea buckthorn, olive, soybean, and sunflower) nourish the lipid barrier, provide antioxidants, and improve elasticity. And the aloe vera from our organically farmed estate in Carmona provides deep hydration, vitamins, and anti-inflammatory enzymes that soothe the area.

Apply the serum at night after cleansing. Place three drops in the palm of your hand, warm them by rubbing your hands together lightly, and distribute them with an upward massage from the nasolabial fold toward the cheek. The massage not only improves absorption. It also stimulates microcirculation and lymphatic drainage, reducing the puffiness that can accentuate the fold.

Step 3: Moisturizer to restore volume and seal it in

The serum provides the active ingredients. The cream provides the hydration and protection that seals those active ingredients into the skin. Our Aloe Vera Facial Cream with Croton lechleri is the ideal complement.

Aloe vera deeply hydrates, delivering water to the upper layers of the epidermis where the nasolabial fold sinks in. Croton lechleri, the Amazonian dragon's blood, accelerates cellular regeneration, calms inflammation, and forms a protective film that locks in moisture. Together, they create a barrier that does more than hydrate. It rebuilds the skin of the fold from the surface.

Apply the cream after the serum, using upward motions from the lip toward the cheek. Gently press your fingertips into the nasolabial fold area without dragging the skin. Gentle pressure stimulates microcirculation without stretching the skin.

Step 4: Targeted facial massage for nasolabial folds

Facial massage can improve the appearance of nasolabial folds by draining retained fluid, stimulating microcirculation, and toning the underlying muscles. It does not eliminate the fold, but it can reduce the puffiness that accentuates it and improve the firmness of the area.

Use our Pure Aloe Vera Gel or Bakuchiol Oleoserum as a medium. Place your index and middle fingers on either side of the nasolabial fold, just above the line. Press gently and glide your fingers upward and outward, toward the temple. Repeat ten times on each side. This movement drains accumulated lymph from the area and gently stretches the skin in the direction opposite to gravity.

Then, using your ring finger, gently tap along the nasolabial fold, from the nose toward the corner of the mouth. The tapping stimulates microcirculation and improves skin texture. Finish by applying gentle pressure to the deepest point of the fold, holding the pressure for three seconds before releasing. Repeat five times.

This massage takes less than two minutes and, when performed daily, can improve the appearance of nasolabial folds within weeks.

Step 5: Habits that prevent deepening

Control exaggerated expressions. Do not stop smiling. But be aware of expressions that excessively tense the muscles around the nasolabial fold: constant frowning, exaggerated laughter that lifts the upper lip too much, and surprised expressions that open the mouth very wide. Do not suppress your emotions. But be aware of repetitive gestures that deepen the lines.

Sleep on your back. Sleeping on your side or stomach compresses your cheek against the pillow, creating mechanical creases that deepen the nasolabial fold. Sleep on your back to avoid this compression. If you cannot avoid sleeping on your side, use a silk pillowcase to reduce friction.

Maintain a stable weight. Weight fluctuations, especially rapid weight loss, reduce cheek volume and deepen the folds. If you need to lose weight, do so gradually—no more than half a kilogram per week—to give your skin time to adapt.

Support collagen from within. Eat foods rich in vitamin C (citrus fruits, peppers, strawberries), which is essential for collagen synthesis. Add high-quality proteins (fish, eggs, legumes) that provide the necessary amino acids. And reduce sugar, which causes glycation, a process that hardens and degrades existing collagen.

Do not smoke. Tobacco destroys collagen, reduces blood circulation to the skin, and causes facial expressions that deepen the folds. If you smoke, quitting is probably the most effective change you can make for your skin.

When to consider medical treatments for the nasolabial fold

Natural and cosmetic treatments can soften the nasolabial fold, but not eliminate it. If the fold is deep, permanent, and significantly affects your appearance, medical treatments may be a valid option. But even after these treatments, you need a skincare routine to maintain the results.

Hyaluronic acid filler. Hyaluronic acid injections into the nasolabial fold and adjacent cheek to restore volume and smooth the indentation. It is the most common and effective treatment for deep nasolabial folds. It lasts six months to a year. It must be administered by a specialist physician because the area is close to the facial artery, and an incorrect injection can cause serious complications, including tissue necrosis or blindness.

Botulinum toxin. Injections that relax the muscles that elevate the upper lip, reducing the contraction that deepens the fold when smiling. It is more effective for dynamic folds, which become deeper when smiling, than for permanent static folds. It lasts three to four months.

Laser and radiofrequency. Treatments that stimulate collagen production in the dermis, tightening the skin and improving firmness in the area. They require several sessions, with results that build over time. They are most effective for moderate folds accompanied by skin laxity.

Thread lift. The insertion of biodegradable threads that lift sagging cheek skin and soften nasolabial folds. It is a minimally invasive treatment with immediate but temporary effects. The threads dissolve within six to eight months.

Facelift. Surgery that repositions facial tissues, removes excess skin, and permanently softens nasolabial folds. It is the most definitive treatment, but also the most invasive, involving recovery time and surgical risks.

None of these treatments replaces a good daily skincare routine. Fillers soften the fold but do not protect collagen from sun damage. Toxin relaxes the muscle but does not hydrate the skin. Laser treatments stimulate collagen production, but the skin continues to age. A daily routine is what maintains the results.

Frequently asked questions about nasolabial folds

Is it normal to have nasolabial folds at 25?

Yes. The nasolabial fold is a normal anatomical structure that has existed since birth. At 25, it may be visible as a subtle line, especially when smiling. It is not a sign of premature aging. It is simply part of your anatomy. What matters is preventing it from becoming excessively deeper too soon.

Do anti-wrinkle creams eliminate nasolabial folds?

No. No cream can eliminate a deep nasolabial fold because the problem is not limited to the skin. It involves underlying volume loss, sagging buccal fat, and bone structure. Creams can soften and hydrate the skin, stimulate collagen production, and improve texture. But they do not restore volume or lift sagging tissue. Fillers or surgery are needed for that.

How long does an anti-aging serum take to soften nasolabial folds?

It takes between 8 and 12 weeks of consistent use to notice visible softening of fine lines and an improvement in texture. Deep nasolabial folds do not disappear, but the surrounding skin improves, the fold looks less pronounced, and the shadows it casts are reduced. Consistency is more important than the active ingredient’s concentration.

Does aloe vera help with nasolabial folds?

Yes, as part of a complete routine. Aloe vera hydrates the skin in the crease, provides antioxidants that protect collagen from degradation, and contains anti-inflammatory enzymes that soothe the area. Used in a serum or cream, it improves the quality of the skin around the crease, making it less visible. But it does not restore lost volume or lift sagging cheeks.

Can I use glycolic acid on the nasolabial fold?

Yes, with caution. Glycolic acid gently exfoliates, improves texture, and stimulates cell renewal in the area. But the skin around the nasolabial fold is sensitive, especially near the corners of the lips. Use low concentrations, below 5%, and apply it only once a week initially. Never use glycolic acid if the skin is irritated or red.

Does facial massage really help with the nasolabial fold?

It helps improve microcirculation, drain retained fluids that accentuate the fold, and gently tone the underlying muscles. It won't eliminate the fold, but it may reduce the swelling that makes it more visible and improve the area's overall firmness. It's a free addition worth incorporating.

Why is my nasolabial fold deeper on one side?

It's common and is usually due to natural facial asymmetries. You may sleep more on one side, use the muscles on one side more when speaking or smiling, or have an asymmetrical bone structure. If the asymmetry appeared suddenly or is accompanied by other symptoms, consult a doctor to rule out neurological causes.

Does weight loss worsen the nasolabial fold?

Yes. Rapid weight loss reduces buccal fat, causing the cheeks to sink and deepening the fold. If you're losing weight, do so gradually and make sure to maintain a diet rich in protein and vitamins that support collagen synthesis. An intensive anti-aging routine during weight loss may partially offset the effect.

What now?

The nasolabial fold is proof that you have lived, laughed, and expressed yourself. It isn't an imperfection. It's anatomy. But when it deepens excessively, it can make you look older than you'd like. The good news is that you can soften it, delay its deepening, and improve the quality of the skin in the area with a consistent routine and the right ingredients.

At Aloeceuticals, we formulate our products with the areas most affected by the passage of time in mind. Our Bakuchiol Anti-Wrinkle Facial Serum stimulates the collagen the nasolabial fold needs. Our Aloe Vera Facial Cream with Croton lechleri or our Aloe Vera Fluid Emulsion, depending on your skin type, hydrates and regenerates the skin in the fold. And our Pure Aloe Vera Gel provides lightweight hydration and antioxidants for the sensitive perioral area.

If you start today, you'll notice the difference in three months. In six months, others will notice it. And in a year, your nasolabial fold will be smoother, firmer, and less deep. It won't disappear. But it won't give you away either.

Write to us if you have questions about which products best fit into your nasolabial fold routine. And remember: smiling shouldn't cost you wrinkles. It should bring you happiness.